Microworms
Firstly, cut a small square in the lid of the container. Cut the coffee filter so that it fits over this hole, and using tape, stick it down. This will allow carbon dioxide to pass out of the container, but prevent pests from contaminating the culture.
I use enough rolled oats to give a depth of at least 2-3cm. At this point, add the hot water to your oats/porridge (the water doesn't have to be boiling). I aim for a sort of moist paste consistency. Once this is done, let the mixture sit until it has cooled to room temperature
Now the oat mixture has reached room temperature, sprinkle yeast over the top. You only need a small pinch of yeast, as too much, and you risk suffocating your worms. With that done, you can now start to spoon out your starter culture onto the mixture.
I re-culture, when the number of microworms the culture is producing starts to decline. As the culture matures (usually within a couple of days of culturing), the worms will start to crawl up the sides of the container. Perhaps the easiest way of harvesting them, is to simply use your finger to wipe along the sides of the container, and deposit the worms directly into the tank.
- Plastic container with lid
- Coffee filter
- Rolled oats
- Baker's yeast
- Microworm starter culture
- Hot water
Firstly, cut a small square in the lid of the container. Cut the coffee filter so that it fits over this hole, and using tape, stick it down. This will allow carbon dioxide to pass out of the container, but prevent pests from contaminating the culture.
I use enough rolled oats to give a depth of at least 2-3cm. At this point, add the hot water to your oats/porridge (the water doesn't have to be boiling). I aim for a sort of moist paste consistency. Once this is done, let the mixture sit until it has cooled to room temperature
Now the oat mixture has reached room temperature, sprinkle yeast over the top. You only need a small pinch of yeast, as too much, and you risk suffocating your worms. With that done, you can now start to spoon out your starter culture onto the mixture.
I re-culture, when the number of microworms the culture is producing starts to decline. As the culture matures (usually within a couple of days of culturing), the worms will start to crawl up the sides of the container. Perhaps the easiest way of harvesting them, is to simply use your finger to wipe along the sides of the container, and deposit the worms directly into the tank.
Soil-less Grindal Worms
- Plastic container with lid
- Coffee filter
- Kitchen scourer pads
- Grindal worm starter culture
- De-chlorinated water
Follow the first step from the above instructions.
Rinse the scourer pads under the tap, to remove any debris or possible contaminants.
Layer several scourer pads on top of each other. Fill the container with enough water that the bottom scourer pad is completely submerged. For this, I use room temperature dechlorinated water.
Add your starter culture of worms.
Unlike microworms, grindal worms require regular feeding. I use pieces of cat or dog kibble, and I only feed what the worms can consume in 24 hours. I remove any uneaten food after this time, as it can quickly turn moldy in such a moist environment.
While hobbyists choose to regularly change the water in their, I only replenish what is lost through evavporation.
A simple way to harvest grindal worms, is to drop a piece of cat kibble into the culture, and then place the square of plastic you cut from the lid of the container, over the kibble. When the worms come to feed, they will congregate on the plastic square, and the worms can then be wiped free with a finger. They can then be rinsed, or added directly to the tank.
While grindal worms can survive at higher temperatures then whiteworms, it's best to the store the culture in a cool place, and remember to keep it moist and regularly fed.
Whiteworms
- Plastic container with lid
- Coffee filter
- Potting soil or peat moss
- Crushed coral (optional)
- Whiteworm starter culture
Follow the first step from the above instructions. Because whiteworms are sensitive to light, I prefer to culture them in a solid plastic container. However, the use of a clear container doesn't seem to have any effect on their numbers.
I use peat moss in my whiteworm culture, but you can also use potting soil. Because whiteworms will start to die off if the soil in their culture becomes too acidic, I mix through a small amount of crushed coral to buffer the pH.
You don't want to saturate the culture with water. While the peat moss or soil should be thoroughly waterlogged, there shouldn't be water pooling at the bottom of the container. I regularly spritz my whiteworm culture with water, to prevent it from drying out.
Now it's time to add your starter culture. Upon introduction, the worms will most likely burrow down into the soil, as they do not like light. So don't be surprised if upon first inspection there are no worms to be seen.
Like grindal worms, your whiteworm culture will require regular feeding. I also feed my white worms pieces of cat kibble, and remove any food that remains uneaten after 24 hours.
Whiteworms will start to die off if the culture gets too hot, so they should be kept in a cool, dark spot in your fish room.