Being that the largest fish from this complex grow to a maximum of only 4-5cm total length, and are relatively sedentary by nature, a 30x30x30cm tank is sufficient for a breeding pair. However, while I use 45x27x30cm tanks to house small groups of related fish, a 60x30x30cm tank is a better option for larger or mixed sex groups.
Don't underestimate the jumping ability of these fish. An opening only a few centimetres across, is enough for these fish to get through, so a tight-fitting lid or cover is vital. I use plastic cling film over my tanks; however, over time the cling film will weaken and tear, so it must be regularly replaced to prevent fish getting through it (once weekly is usually enough).
I find these fish show their best colouration over a dark substrate. In my tanks, I use peat moss (this needs to be presoaked until it is fully waterlogged) and ADA aquasoil (go with Malaya or Africana to avoid ammonia leaching). If you choose not to use substrate, painting the bottom of the tank black, or scattering some leaf litter over the bottom of the tank can make the fish feel more comfortable. Avoid substrates that are intended to raise the pH or hardness of the tank water.
I use live plants in all my tanks. They provide valuable cover, diffuse bright overhead lighting, and most importantly, help with the removal of ammonia in uncycled tanks. The plants I use must be able to tolerate a low light, low nutrient, softwater environment. The following are aquatic plants that I've found grow well in these conditions.
As these fish breathe atmospheric air, a filter is not necessary. Even so, I still run sponge filters in all my tanks, with their main purpose being to evenly circulate heated water rather than increase oxygenation. I prefer sponge filters over other forms of filtration as they won't harm fry, and you can achieve a very precise rate of flow with the aid of an air control valve.
Don't underestimate the jumping ability of these fish. An opening only a few centimetres across, is enough for these fish to get through, so a tight-fitting lid or cover is vital. I use plastic cling film over my tanks; however, over time the cling film will weaken and tear, so it must be regularly replaced to prevent fish getting through it (once weekly is usually enough).
I find these fish show their best colouration over a dark substrate. In my tanks, I use peat moss (this needs to be presoaked until it is fully waterlogged) and ADA aquasoil (go with Malaya or Africana to avoid ammonia leaching). If you choose not to use substrate, painting the bottom of the tank black, or scattering some leaf litter over the bottom of the tank can make the fish feel more comfortable. Avoid substrates that are intended to raise the pH or hardness of the tank water.
I use live plants in all my tanks. They provide valuable cover, diffuse bright overhead lighting, and most importantly, help with the removal of ammonia in uncycled tanks. The plants I use must be able to tolerate a low light, low nutrient, softwater environment. The following are aquatic plants that I've found grow well in these conditions.
- Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
- Hydrilla verticillata
- Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)
- Water wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
- Mayaca fluviatilis
- Duckweed
As these fish breathe atmospheric air, a filter is not necessary. Even so, I still run sponge filters in all my tanks, with their main purpose being to evenly circulate heated water rather than increase oxygenation. I prefer sponge filters over other forms of filtration as they won't harm fry, and you can achieve a very precise rate of flow with the aid of an air control valve.